The Historic District

Almost to the blopentine and primer stage. Some questions that probably seem obvious…

How can you tell if wood is in good shape or if need to give it some extra love. To my eye it looks great but I also have no idea what I’m looking for!

I’ve been working in my basement but it does not have good ventilation. We don’t have a garage, so I think I’ll need to do the blop outside. Any advice on best set up? Trying not to have anything catch on fire…and do I put it on both sides or just the exterior?

I’ve never used oil paint and I’ll be using oil primer. What brush do you recommend? And what other tools should I gather? Any other tips are appreciated! And do I prime the rabbets? I’ve seen it recommended both ways.

and finally, any advice on how to get glazing putty out of Florentine glass? Do I just slowly scrape it out? Seems to be what’s working but also taking forever!

Aislinn, the quick answer to most of your questions is maybe. There seems seems to be regional differences in painting your rabbets. None of my sashes had painted rabbets and the glass was not set in putty. Others here have both putty and paint. You can tell if your windows frames are good by just trying to lightly wrack them, if they do go out of square in most cases replacing the wooden pegs at the corners will tighten them up. Rot is obvious, most times the rot will be on the lower corners were the grain is open. Over the years it sucks up moisture causing the rot. If minor you can fill with albatron filler. If the rot becomes a strength issue you may need to think about wood replacement. Not a big deal if you have the tools and the skills. If not you can learn or get to know a local carpenter.
As far as the blot, give it all it will take, let it dry a few days and paint. Oil base paint will take a day to several days to dry enough to the touch. Give it a few more days after it has dried to properly dry and cure.
Areas to paint and not to paint, as mentioned painting the rabbets is not necessary, at least I don’t. I also do not paint the outer sides of the frame, the part that makes contact with the box, it will interfere with the with the up and down movement of the sash, it will tend to stick and jamb especially if you using a latex over top of the primer.
This is you first window sash, take your time and learn, mistakes are easy to repair and not the end of the world. In time all will be gleaned and each window you do it will become easier and faster. Remember this is supposed to be fun or at the least a zen thing.
Ron

The only thing I will add to Ron's reply is that if you think about the purpose of the blopentine, where to apply it becomes evident (pretty much everywhere). Old wood dries out and becomes brittle; the blop nourishes the wood and acts as a sort of "moisturizer" to restore resilience and water resistance. Once it's dry and lightly sanded with fine grit, it creates an excellent surface to accept paint.

Oil-based is absolutely the way to go. Latex is too soft and "gummy" for windows that slide. An exhaust fan placed in a cellar window or hatchway will help to remove fumes while you're working and while the sashes are drying.

I find the process of window restoration and its result gratifying, as do others here. There's no substitute for well-made windows of old-growth wood, and the act of bringing them back to sound condition is at the heart of historical preservation. (Says the guy with 24 steel casement windows - but, hey, I've got plenty of wooden ones, too) It's a great feeling to see a beautiful, freshly-restored window of either type(with wavy glass, perhaps?) back in place and functioning as it should.

I wish Jade Mortimer were still active here. She is the professional, and her pep talks and sound advice are the best.

Ok, thank you both! I know this will get easier as I do it, and I appreciate this forum to help me along the way.

use a natural bristle brush, plastic fiber ones can't take oil paint.

phil wrote: ↑Sat Jun 26, 2021 9:18 am use a natural bristle brush, plastic fiber ones can't take oil paint.

^ What he said. It will tell you on the package if it's for oil or latex. A good-quality brush is worth the price and will last a long time if you're diligent about cleaning it properly.

To get the oil primer and paint off your hands, use any cooking oil (corn oil etc). Work a couple of tablespoons into your hands like lotion for a few minutes, then add liquid dishwashing soap, a bit of water, and then rinse with warm water. Repeat. If it's on heavy, you can skip the first rinse - use a paper towel. I have a gallon of oil that froze and so is no good for cooking, which I keep for this purpose now.

You don't have to use mineral spirits (which you WOULD clean your brush etc with) on your body. It is pretty harsh physically. Just sharing an oil painter's tip.

I don't like to prime or paint the rabbets, I feel it prevents the putty from bonding right....only blopentine on them a few days prior to glazing. YMMV.

Thanks Gibson! It’s these little tips that are very helpful. Headed to the hardware store this week.

GibsonGM wrote: ↑Sun Jun 27, 2021 1:51 pm Just sharing an oil painter's tip.

I also thank you. You brought back a fuzzy memory of my parents' practice of cleaning their hands with vegetable oil after painting. They also used Lestoil; it might have been cheaper at the time, and the soap was built right in.

Manalto wrote: ↑Sat Jun 26, 2021 8:47 pm

phil wrote: ↑Sat Jun 26, 2021 9:18 am use a natural bristle brush, plastic fiber ones can't take oil paint.

^ What he said. It will tell you on the package if it's for oil or latex. A good-quality brush is worth the price and will last a long time if you're diligent about cleaning it properly.

I'm chiming in to agree, as someone that inherited her grandfather's union painting tools (including wall paper brushes) that are still in fantastic shape.