yes there may be Canadian, US or even regional differences. I didn't need any 20 amp breakers. My fridge does have to be separate but it can share a clock plug so I did that. the idea is then you knew when the fridge went off if it does. not much draw on a clock plug. I reused mine, that was about the only part I did reuse. but you can get new ones, they have a hook and an inset plug .
check your box sizes. the way it works here is it goes by the number of wires entering a box and the wire nuts ( marettes) are each counted as a wire, then there is a certain box size required. on some of mine the inspector said the box was too small although he liked the neatness and everything else was ok.
when I ran my circuits I did not group all the bedroom plugs together, then I found the bedroom plugs needed to be on spark-fault breakers. then I needed three spark fault breakers for the bedroom plugs. ( $300) one circuit could have handled that.
I wonder how the microwave outlet is identified? in some kitchens there may be choices where to place it.
I put a switch on my hood fan, maybe not necessary because it has a switch. dont forget if you want a garbage disposal and dishwasher. I put outlets some may hard-wire them. nice if you can unplug for servicing but you aren't supposed to bury plugs in weird spaces that aren't accessible. even a switch with a lockout could be considered because how many go turn off the breaker before they reach into a garbage disposer to get a spoon or something. I put the switch inside below the sink , you dont want it to inadvertently get turned on if you need to go fishing down there.
check the orientation of the stove plug. I got mine upside down
It says top on the outlet probably.
you might choose a standard height for switches to make them uniform. I moved all my plugs out of the baseboards because I didn't want to make Swiss cheese out of them
and about doubled the number of plugs. I put the bottom of the box at 11 inches so I can just measure with a sheet of paper. had to fix the old holes in the baseboards but removed them for stripping anyway.
compare boxes before you buy too many some will go in through a hole and can be installed without opening walls I used that type with screws into the studs from inside the boxes so I didnt need to damage any walls except for my run from panel to attic. I also put a mast out there on the outside of the house through the roof and it needed to be U bolted to framing so the access helped for that as well. I needed bigger wire for 400 amps to the poles and had to move it because it was near a window.
outside I need arc-fault breakers. I put a razor plug in the bathroom it has its own . I just put two outlets outside. the rule was that if they were over 10 feet they didn't need to be on arc fault so I put one on my porch that as a regular breaker. I switched one of those plugs from inside a closet, it's for the christmas lights. a switched outside plug could be nice, like if you use a block heater or car warmer or something its nice to be able to turn things on without looking for your shoes
I just refereed to a simplified Canadian codebook for most and my brother is an electrician so he stopped by and supervised, left me a to do list each time . you could consider getting an electrician to do that. technically you may not be able to do wiring without a ticket. I don't think an apprentice can even work without a tradesman present but there may be some laws , the argument is that you should be able to maintain your own house . I'm not sure where the law falls. I can get help from family but not others technically. The inspector was happy because my brother oversaw it and helped me a lot. Its really worth having an electrician show you how to tuck the wires and wire a box using pigtails professionally because there are tricks to doing it neatly. the inspector will call you on it if it looks messy and disorganized. whether you inspect or what you do inside your own castle isn't my business but I'd try to keep it neat, you dont want issues later. I ran a thick wire on a 20 amp for AC or heat in the attic. It was a red wire, I guess to signify 20 amps. Your codes will vary some for sure so don't quote me on the regs.
for some I used romex 2 wire you can put two wires under each staple. with the three wire , its round, and only one wire under each wire staple. no more than a meter apart I put them closer. he wasn't concerned if I fished in wire and had no access to staple.
the way that works ,, with three wire and two separate breakers running it, they are on opposite poles of the panel. two hot wires, the neutral is shared. I guess if you looked at that on a scope you'd see that the two hot wires are out of phase and the neutral "returns" the two phases.. that's probably oversimplified and perhaps incorrect. AC travels both directions..
my point is you can run two breakers two circuits with 3 wires and save more wire runs. This is ignoring the bare ground every wire has a ground joined to every box and that is not part of your electric circuit it is for safety. if a wire touches the box it blows the breaker. Technically the word "bonding " may be more correct?
I used a square D panel on those the phase alternates on each slot some panels are not like that. stick with a common brand, if you have some off brand or re-use the panel you might have trouble getting breakers and things. Id' replace really old breakers. Old screw in fuses are ok because fuses can't stick but old breakers can. if a breaker sticks that's when you can have a fire inside a wall.
dont walk on the wire he may not like footprints on it they can be fussy like that. if they spot a nick or something its a new wire back to the panel or a junction box.
getting all the boxes the right height is more difficult than it seems. many I had to adjust to make myself happy. there is sometimes a knot or something affecting placement if the wall isn't opened to install the box. in some places I put a dab of epoxy on the outside of the box and placed it accurately then later put the screws. all the epoxy does is keep it from shifting while I screw it in. I used countersunk screws at about a 45 degree angle , that was permitted. a lot of those boxes are designed for new construction. some need the wall open for nailing. I didn't choose plastic ones but they meet code. surprising how many choices there are. I bought lots and returned what i didn't need.
If you are getting inspected I'd remove any old lamps and things get them inspected with new so that doesn't become a code issue. .later, if you want vintage push buttons and old fixtures, well .. its your castle..
I found some bad connection sin the old knob and tube, some were blackened and twisted together, hidden in walls by shoddy contractors in one spot. I'd also check where the wires leave your house and go to outside lights like the porch light. I found those had bad insulation. the inspector didn't care about removing old unused wires I just had to cut anything that showed. as i go if I open walls I remove them.
I'm not an electrician so take my advice with a pinch of salt. I just wanted to pass on some of the stuff I learned. even if a pal wants a new outlet in their house I wont touch other peoples wiring. I'm a millwright though so I do some electrical troubleshooting and some repairs inside machinery. most house wiring electricians dont know their way around in a control box. then there are electronics technicians.
so the responsibility can get grey. any time I'm unsure of what I'm doing I ask someone more qualified. I do not go around pretending to be an electrician.
If i'm swapping failed parts I'm usually OK with that, If I need to reconfigure wiring to fit different components or if it gets complex at all then I work with an electrician. then they leave me alone if I'm just changing a switch or plug. I won't open an electrical box that I dont own. I won't even disconnect something hard wired in. They handle wires to the machinery. I will do things like work on motors or start circuits and things like that but I'm not shy to ask for help.