I was wondering about how to secure the sash cord into the side of the sash. I know the most common answer is to double knot it same as the old and it should be fine. But is it also secured with a nail or just left as a knot only? Also someone else mentioned to me if you put a nail in the center of the knot, but the knot comes undone, then you will have a problem.
I've encountered both sashes that were only knotted and some sashes that had no knot, but along the plough were just nailed in with 2 nails on each side. Also with nailing, I'm not really sure how you would nail a nail to hold the knot because the hole tends to be deep and the nail won't really have enough wood to bite into to hold in place unless you nailed at an angle.
Also with my sashes I got from Hoffmeyer's, oddly enough with them being so adamant I give exact tracings/measurements of my plough and bore hole, they say the way they do it, they just plough all one length as opposed to the way the originals were done, where the plough narrows to only the width of the sash cord, then widens...
- sash side.jpg (65.13 KiB) Viewed 941 times
Compared to the originals
- sash old.jpg (57.05 KiB) Viewed 941 times
So I imagine the reason that was done was to prevent the knot from becoming dislodged, however with the way they do it, where the entire width is ploughed wide instead of having that narrow part, I wonder if the knot could slip out of that hole, which would mean I would have to nail it in place which defeats the purpose of the bore hole.
Can anyone shed some light on this?
2nd question
I know the consensus on here is that back bedding with putty is better than just glazing on the top/front of the glass. However I do have some concerns about that. The first is that back bedding requires removing the glass, which is where you have the biggest chance of breaking glass, and not everyone has much spare antique glass. Maybe this might be fine for someone with experience, but I'm thinking down the line, in the future someone might end up breaking the glass becuase it was back bedded. Also when you get into things like leaded or stained glass, this becomes more problematic than just clear glass. - Esp considering I am doing some Queen Anne and leaded windows.
I understand why back bedding is recommended, so that this sort of thing does not happen
- sash leak.jpg (305.2 KiB) Viewed 941 times
Which brings me to my second issue with back bedding when originally it was not back bedded, you won't be able to slide the glazing points into the same holes again, I often prefer to do this because the old wood tends to be really, really hard and I have a really difficult time making new holes for glazing points in old sashes.
Also on the topic of glazing points, I noticed old time points seem to be made of tin, and are handmade, all the commercially produced ones today are steel, and even the new triangular ones tend to be equilateral triangles rather than the original ones that mostly tend to be isosceles triangles, I noticed the isosceles variety tend to be easier to work with than equilateral points. I had used tin snips to convert one to the other, however this seems like defeating the purpose of buying pre made ones, makes me want to get some sheet metal and clip my own, however I was unsure where to get sheet metal and in the appropriate thickness.
And my final question was about protecting large picture sash or stained/leaded glass. Is it better to get one of those professional grade protection systems installed like what they have on churches or is it better to get a wooden storm sash and install some grade of tempered or shatter proof plexi glass in that?
Thanks in advance,
