Needed turpentine for mixing blop.
I checked locally and no one had the real thing so I ordered Sunnyside brand from Amazon.
Hearing that it might take a long time for Amazon to ship, Jill (pqtex) ordered from American Rope and Tar.
We got both of them within a few days of each other so I conducted an unscientific smell test.
The one Jill ordered smells somewhat like a pine forest with chemical overtones.
The one from Amazon has more of the chemical smell to it. So for our blop I'm using the one Jill ordered and using the one from Amazon for clean up duty.
update on turpentine
update on turpentine
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Re: update on turpentine
I checked and our local Ace and True Value still have turpentine although the price has gone up considerably. The big box stores don't have it, but I never bother with them anyway. They are starting to remind me of how Radio Shack got after they got rid of their parts drawers.
Re: update on turpentine
IMO either should be fine for Blop, the Balsam one is likely better quality than you need
Mick...
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Re: update on turpentine
I might be jumping to conclusions, but can we make this assumption? ( read the below as a question, rather than a statement)
Turps that are derived from trees have better bug resistance properties, so perhaps better outdoors, and the ones derived from the oil industry are OK for interior work where we don't really need to concern ourselves about bug resistance? ( by bugs that may mean mold spores etc)
Perhaps a side by side test could show if there is any notable difference in performance?
Do spores grow under exterior paint and cause the paint to release? if that is true,then perhaps it makes the paint stick better to use the real stuff for outdoor work, and it might not show any difference quickly?
Maybe both will thin the linseed oil and allow penetration and then evaporate somewhat.
aside from linseed oil there is also canola oil and other similar products. I bought a bucket of "linseed oil" from a guy on craigslist. I tried it on a new cedar fence. It didn't really make any dramatic difference to the look when I applied it and I didn't really know if it did a lot or if it was just a waste of time.
I often use danish oil rather than linseed. I'm sure it doesn't contain danish people;-) its a concoction and the ingredients might not be exactly clear. To that I add about 50 percent turps.
Phil
Turps that are derived from trees have better bug resistance properties, so perhaps better outdoors, and the ones derived from the oil industry are OK for interior work where we don't really need to concern ourselves about bug resistance? ( by bugs that may mean mold spores etc)
Perhaps a side by side test could show if there is any notable difference in performance?
Do spores grow under exterior paint and cause the paint to release? if that is true,then perhaps it makes the paint stick better to use the real stuff for outdoor work, and it might not show any difference quickly?
Maybe both will thin the linseed oil and allow penetration and then evaporate somewhat.
aside from linseed oil there is also canola oil and other similar products. I bought a bucket of "linseed oil" from a guy on craigslist. I tried it on a new cedar fence. It didn't really make any dramatic difference to the look when I applied it and I didn't really know if it did a lot or if it was just a waste of time.
I often use danish oil rather than linseed. I'm sure it doesn't contain danish people;-) its a concoction and the ingredients might not be exactly clear. To that I add about 50 percent turps.
Phil
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Re: update on turpentine
Do you have to treat the danish oil the same as boiled linseed -- ie, making sure it doesn't spontaneously combust? I'm still terrified of this and I'd like to avoid even using the stuff if it's possible to still do a good job without it.
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Re: update on turpentine
Gina - yes, treat them the same. Best way to deal w/rags....just take an old pallet or something, lean it up against a tree in the shade, and DRAPE your rags over the top to dry. When dry, they are safe. They will only have the chance to ignite if balled up in a container. OR - take a 5 gal. bucket mostly full of water, and dunk them in it, leave them there for a day, and hang outdoors as described! I treat all oil rags this way, no problems ever. ANY method to wet them, or open them up to air out, is fine! No worries!
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Re: update on turpentine
GibsonGM wrote:...take a 5 gal. bucket mostly full of water, and dunk them in it, leave them there for a day, and hang outdoors as described!
This is what I do as well. You don't want them wadded up or down inside a dry container. Also, keep them away from any sources of heat or flame.
Re: update on turpentine
I string up a line just like a clothes line and peg the cloths like you would a dish towel. You will know when they are safe as they go hard. The bucket method works well too
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Re: update on turpentine
Don't collect them together in a pile. I once saw a cardboard box full of wet rags that had embers. I just take them outside and let them dry. Just don't create a wet pile of rags.
a collection of solvent soaked rags can create enough heat to self ignite. It usually happens when people just aren't wary that it can happen. spontaneous combustion can happen naturally other ways, a wet pile of rotting debris can generate enough heat but usually dampness takes care of it. sometimes forest fires can start this way all on their own , naturally.
a collection of solvent soaked rags can create enough heat to self ignite. It usually happens when people just aren't wary that it can happen. spontaneous combustion can happen naturally other ways, a wet pile of rotting debris can generate enough heat but usually dampness takes care of it. sometimes forest fires can start this way all on their own , naturally.