Re: The argument for retaining historic windows
Posted: Fri May 08, 2020 4:27 pm
Jamie it looks like the water is creeping around the edge of the roofing then getting on that white strip as it is green. I cant' tell if the white strip is drip flashing or a strip of wood. I thought maybe since the rain falls about a foot nd a half or so it might hen splash up and keep the windows damp. You could add a gutter and downspout onto the main roof but I know it might look a bit dorky.
I had a place where the rain from my gutters was overrunning and splashing onto a sidewalk beside the house. I delayed and the splashing water was hitting the sidewalk and bouncing back up, wetting the bottom 4 feet or so of shingles and causing damage. It wasn't wetting the shingles directly but the water was splashing up further than i was anticipating. It just sort of misted the siding in my case but over time it wasnt' good.
Someone bought that finger jointed pine rather than springing for good fir. low rot resistance but you fixed it and of course it isn't your choice what you started with. the paint will help. I wonder if that rain were to just run off the edge but land on a bevel , maybe that could direct any splashing away from the windows if you see them getting misted by it. If you sliced a 2x4 diagonally and put roofing on that so the angle right below the drip edge was a steeper slope it might splash away down on top of your roof rather than bouncing back and dampening the area.. Perhaps? if that white strip isnt' a drip flashing you could stick one under the edge of the roofing so it didn't creep under the edge of the plywood.
Ive seen where roofers sometimes put a strip on top of the roofing near the edges on the gable ends. Its a bit of a kluge I guess but see it now and then. maybe they do that if the roof starts peeling from wind at the edges. often there is a 3/4 x 2" strip just under the edges of the plywood , it rots because of where it is. I'm changing a lot of mine because it's punky. I started putting a dab of roofing tar under each shingle right at the edge to prevent them lifting from wind. probably with steeper roofs they lift less but if the roof is flatter they can lift with a good wind especially if that nail near the edge as nothing to grab into due to rot.
the specs on my roofing say the overlap should be about 1/4 to 3/4, I cut a wood strip 1/2 x 1/2 and the length is the same as the setback of the shingles, about 4" roughly. I keep that little stick in my pouch and use it to measure sometimes as an aid in placing the shingles to keep the rows straight. they have a little cut in them that is used as a placement guide so I usually refer to that. when I do the rows at the edge I lay the strip over against the wood strip to help position them so I dont have some poking out more than others. if you allow a wider overlap then the shingles curve downward so the dimension matters but it is somewhat ambiguous. I think if there is too much you can start to see a curvature of the shingles on top of the roof deck in effect that causes a gap. if they are short then the wind has less to catch , if it is more it might keep the water away further. some lay them way over and trim the whole bunch as a last step. Im adding a 2x2 drip edge flashing on the gable ends. in one way t looks better as it helps stop the rot, from another perspective maybe it looks more modern. I can live with the look of it. I think when people go to like 4" tin flashing it becomes a bit obvious as its not an original feature. mine overlaps that wood strip by about 1/4 so you don't see the wood strip. its sheltered under the drip edge. the drip edge flashing on the gable ends detracts from the vintage appearance but also serves a purpose. If roofers are trying to cut costs they don't use a drip edge. the bottom 1/8th or so angles outward and leaves a place for it to drip from , so it doesn't creep back under the wood strip.
I had a place where the rain from my gutters was overrunning and splashing onto a sidewalk beside the house. I delayed and the splashing water was hitting the sidewalk and bouncing back up, wetting the bottom 4 feet or so of shingles and causing damage. It wasn't wetting the shingles directly but the water was splashing up further than i was anticipating. It just sort of misted the siding in my case but over time it wasnt' good.
Someone bought that finger jointed pine rather than springing for good fir. low rot resistance but you fixed it and of course it isn't your choice what you started with. the paint will help. I wonder if that rain were to just run off the edge but land on a bevel , maybe that could direct any splashing away from the windows if you see them getting misted by it. If you sliced a 2x4 diagonally and put roofing on that so the angle right below the drip edge was a steeper slope it might splash away down on top of your roof rather than bouncing back and dampening the area.. Perhaps? if that white strip isnt' a drip flashing you could stick one under the edge of the roofing so it didn't creep under the edge of the plywood.
Ive seen where roofers sometimes put a strip on top of the roofing near the edges on the gable ends. Its a bit of a kluge I guess but see it now and then. maybe they do that if the roof starts peeling from wind at the edges. often there is a 3/4 x 2" strip just under the edges of the plywood , it rots because of where it is. I'm changing a lot of mine because it's punky. I started putting a dab of roofing tar under each shingle right at the edge to prevent them lifting from wind. probably with steeper roofs they lift less but if the roof is flatter they can lift with a good wind especially if that nail near the edge as nothing to grab into due to rot.
the specs on my roofing say the overlap should be about 1/4 to 3/4, I cut a wood strip 1/2 x 1/2 and the length is the same as the setback of the shingles, about 4" roughly. I keep that little stick in my pouch and use it to measure sometimes as an aid in placing the shingles to keep the rows straight. they have a little cut in them that is used as a placement guide so I usually refer to that. when I do the rows at the edge I lay the strip over against the wood strip to help position them so I dont have some poking out more than others. if you allow a wider overlap then the shingles curve downward so the dimension matters but it is somewhat ambiguous. I think if there is too much you can start to see a curvature of the shingles on top of the roof deck in effect that causes a gap. if they are short then the wind has less to catch , if it is more it might keep the water away further. some lay them way over and trim the whole bunch as a last step. Im adding a 2x2 drip edge flashing on the gable ends. in one way t looks better as it helps stop the rot, from another perspective maybe it looks more modern. I can live with the look of it. I think when people go to like 4" tin flashing it becomes a bit obvious as its not an original feature. mine overlaps that wood strip by about 1/4 so you don't see the wood strip. its sheltered under the drip edge. the drip edge flashing on the gable ends detracts from the vintage appearance but also serves a purpose. If roofers are trying to cut costs they don't use a drip edge. the bottom 1/8th or so angles outward and leaves a place for it to drip from , so it doesn't creep back under the wood strip.