Fixing Not-So-Fine Furniture

[Kashka-Kat]

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Well I cant proceed with my plans to fix up the basement until I clear out some my fixer upper furniture - so Im starting to tackle some of those. Some of it I will want to be doing a more historically sensitive restoration (more about those later)

Other stuff - like this 1930s oak office desk - has been futzed with by someone who didnt know any better (i.e me) and it wasnt ever a piece of what youd call "fine furnture" in the first place. So the question becomes.... how to restore/repair in a way that's "good enough" and respectful of the piece (which is actually a sweet nicely styled little desk) but without attempting to take it back to what it was originally.

The original finish when I first got it 20 yrs ago was something very heavy & opaque & mustardy in color (which was typical of oak office furniture of that era). I removed it and then I put on a water base stain + poly (this was before I knew better).

Then it sat in a basement for 12 years, now it needs some TLC again.

The pic shows it before I started working on it + the top after it was lightly sanded a bit with 220 grit. I dont think I want to be sanding out every last bit of poly out of the pores, nor do I want to mess with strippers. Im thinking of just some sort of heavier bodied stain to even out the color + a varnish or poly over that...?.

So then - what stain, what brand, even what color? Ive already tested out some gel stain (general finishes) because its supposedly OK going over anything - but not sure I want it to be THAT opaque & concealing of the grain. But OK, maybe it should be considering the original finish was opaque and I don't think they chose the wood to be under a clear finish (grains not matching, etc.)

Another possibility I read somewhere was to apply shellac and use that as a base and then apply a stain + clear finish top coat over it (shellac would keep stain absorption about the same all over....?).

ON THE OTHER HAND .... pls feel free to advise some entirely different approach. This thing is actually in pretty good condition considering what it is - not nearly as trashed as some Ive seen. Ironically, I kinda wish Id left the original opaque mustardy color on it. Original is almost always best I think!

Thx as always for your input. Cathy in WI

[Kashka-Kat]

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The top - actually it looks worse in the pic than in real life but it gives you a good idea of the situation.

[Gothichome]

Kasha, this sounds like a question best answered by Al or Casey, my suggestion is how about a Swedish teak finish. A classic mid century style that is the latest thing in antique furnature. It certainly has a correct style, and no one needs to know it not.

[phil]

If you don't want to spend a lot of time there is always laminate, ( formica) they do make some nice patterns and it's super durable. at least that would be easy and it would last through anything you throw at it. just do the top and the top edge?

[CS in Low Hud]

Hi Kasha,

That's a nice desk! My dad has had one just exactly like it for years (bought it at a second hand store and refinished it back in about 1969). Do you have the slide-out writing block that goes in that top slot? Anyway, his is stained dark (probobly something like a "walnut" stain), and then varnished.

I rebuilt a really beat-up AC "Library Table" into a desk for my daughter. The top had been set on fire (!) at some point and was also badly gouged. I kept the top, but laminated new quarter sawn oak veneer over the top. It looks good. Your desk is not nearly so beat up, and so I wouldn't cover the existing top . Were it me, I probobly would take a chemical stripper to the whole thing, followed by a complete wash in denatured alcohol, followed by a fairly light sanding and then a dark stain. I do like poly as a top-coat - particularly on something like a desk that will have drinks set on it. Sprayed on poly looks good, if you do it right, and doesn't have a "layer of plastic" look.

Chris

[Al F. Furnituremaker]

Kasha,

You desk looks like it is in good shape, so if you want to add some color quick, consider a shellac. There are various colors of shellac available, in flakes that require dissolving in alcohol, but you will be getting a better product than the big box off the shelf stuff. Shellac comes in colors from very light (Platina) to dark (Garnet). Shellac will not hide the grain as many stains (especially gel stains) will do. Since you've already applied a coat of finish, stains will not color as well as they would have without anything being previously applied. Be careful with any sanding since most of these tops were veneered.

If you elect to strip off the current finish, read the stripper details to be sure you use the correct solvent (not necessarily alcohol), to neutralize and wash with.

I currently have a double pedestal walnut desk of the same style, in the back of my van for repair and refinish. It is a basket case and is going to require a lot of work.

[Kashka-Kat]

Oh my - this same or similar desk in dark walnut would be exquisite!

I just cannot do methyl chloride anymore. There was a time I was very macho about fumes and I do think I might have done some damage. Not had great results with the orange or the other green stuff - pulls off finish/wood color so unevenly. Its good for stuff to be painted over, but for bare wood - so messy & frustrating having to apply it and remove over and over and over. Im open to new info however!

Oh - what should I do with the inner parts of the drawer boxes - wood (birch?) so very dry. Was thinking of some kind of oil just to replenish it (since wood is bare and never has been finished) but what exactly>

[Al F. Furnituremaker]

Kashka-kat,

There aren't many more options for removing the finish other than strippers, chemical or environmentally friendly. I usually don't recommend sanding only because of the risk of sanding through the veneer, if there is any. If you use chemical strippers outdoors, you shouldn't have a problem, especially on a slightly breezy day.

As far as the insides of the drawers, clean them up, sand if you want, and leave them as is. Finish if you want, but if you do put it on both sides. Wood doesn't need to be fed, it died when the tree was cut down, and once it reaches EMC (equilibrium moisture content, which this has) that's as dry as it will get.

[phil]

on flat stuff like a tabletop I often find a thin cabinet scraper works well, and no strippers needed. . if you try that then file the corners round so you don't' catch a corner and dig in , otherwise you will have good control and depending on the finish. It may pull the finish off really easy this way.

If the strippers are affecting you maybe it's best to stay clear but you can use a chemical mask with decent carbon filters and good gloves and that may help.

if you wanted to have some fun with it you could try the peel and stick veneers. I bet you could lay out a nice custom pattern or something personalized. i think you could cut the stuff wiht a razor knife or they have those olfa cutters that are like a pizza cutter. I haven't really tried the peel and stick stuff but I just thought it might be a neat project to play with it. You could do some cool patterns and fancy borders and it might be fun. then maybe seal it in with poly or epoxy so it's washable and durable.

If you tried a power sander on the veneer, you might win if you are careful and use fine paper and just try to get the finish off.

If you do go through then resort to a coverup. yes I know ts not exactly restoration but it all depends how much you want to invest in it or if you just want to clean it up and use it. i wouldn't try any of the above on a real true antique but a 50's desk, maybe ?

when I did my kitchen cabinets I used thin plywood for the drawer bottoms but I cut the grooves bit wider than the plywood so I could add a sheet of white laminate on top of the plywood. It brightened them up and made them easy to clean. if you flip a drawer over you may find it isn't hard to remove the bottom if you wish to work on that without mucking up the insides of the drawers. - depends how they are constructed. if they are messed up like from spilled ink and stuff you might find it's actually very quick to just cut new drawer bottoms the same size as original and stick them in.