The Historic District

Thanks @Lily. I love the hardware too. And it's continuing to work well so far, not that I expected differently.

My front screen door is missing its angle strike and I've not been able to find one anywhere. I tried calling the manufacturer of the new latch for the back door, but they won't sell an individual angle strike. You can buy a box strike separately however...

on the sandblasting. I spoke to a guy a week or so ago. he had a porsche race car and had stripped it down in his driveway. he put it on a rotissary so he could turn it over.
he said he used a thing that combines sand with water from a pressure washer. I guess it needs a different wand but it introduces the sand to the pressurized water and sprays the water and sand together. maybe it was glass or walnut shells he wasnt; short on money by the looks of things and he was probably an engineer of some sort. he said he did the whole car in one day and brought it in and applied a rust preventative took it back out and washed it then back in to dry and paint. The car looked so beautiful and that way it didnt' scatter sand all over his nice house and driveway.
an advantage is that it doesnt' heat the metal as sandblasting cars can harden the metal and cause cracks he said and metal fatigue was likely important as his car was pretty extreme, not a road car he had to trailer it to the track. I bought a couple of fenders off him for my 66 volvo.

Seems like a bad idea to add water into the mix when you're sandblasting wood. I'd like to avoid buying a moisture meter to make sure the wood has eventually dried properly before applying the varnish.

Being a member of the local Porsche club and knowing people who have restored race cars and other historically significant cars, using wet sandblasting is not recommended. Especially on steel parts...

mjt wrote: ↑Wed Dec 16, 2020 5:37 pm Seems like a bad idea to add water into the mix when you're sandblasting wood. I'd like to avoid buying a moisture meter to make sure the wood has eventually dried properly before applying the varnish.

Being a member of the local Porsche club and knowing people who have restored race cars and other historically significant cars, using wet sandblasting is not recommended. Especially on steel parts...

he put it on a rotissary, did the sandblasting, brought it in treated it with a rust inhibitor, took it back out, washed it down, brought it in and dried it off and primered it with epoxy.
It was a well orchestrated maneuver. he couldn't have sandblasted without the water at his house because you know how sandblasters are they throw fine grit a long way.
He had some other projects going. obviously knew a lot about bodywork judging by how perfect all the paintwork he had done was but weather it leaves water in seams and such I cant' really comment. I doubt the race car sees much wet outdoors weather. he went to extremes to lighten it, wide tires, tubbed I guess. the motor didn't seem huge but it was definitely balanced and race prepared. probably mostly fiberglass or carbon fiber panels. He's an experienced racer. looked like a lot of fun being had to me.

sandblasting or pressure washing wood will hog out the softer parts of the grain, hitting it at an oblique angle might lessen that , wood can be acclimatized but I agree it is probably not the best way to treat your fine furniture In some cases it could get paint off in a hurry, so maybe if the wood is thick then it could remove paint or loose debris prior to sanding or planing but embedded sand isn't going to help blades, maybe walnut shells could be used. some salvage logs that roll in from the sea, the sand is an issue for them too, at least until they get into the logs, but some still do use chainsaw rigs to cut bug wide planks. maybe there are certain applications for it. I usually use a heat gun and scraper too, but sandblasting is really fast, that's its main advantage. worth learning more about.

Finally finishing some projects that I started more than 6 years ago - The Attic Bath - part 6.

MJ, some plans are destined to failure even with the best plans. It does look good though. Maybe some will want the stuff that doesn’t fit the new standard. There are plenty of old home folks still working with the old standards. Us as an example, but it is getting harder to mate the old with new.

mjt wrote: ↑Tue Feb 09, 2021 3:06 am Finally finishing some projects that I started more than 6 years ago - The Attic Bath - part 6.

The bathroom looks good; I'm a believer in dark walls for small rooms. Do you know approximately when the horn size got smaller? I have a 1953 toilet installation coming up, so I'm glad you mentioned this.

You could always eat the sweet potatoes.

Manalto wrote: ↑Wed Feb 10, 2021 1:37 am
The bathroom looks good; I'm a believer in dark walls for small rooms. Do you know approximately when the horn size got smaller? I have a 1953 toilet installation coming up, so I'm glad you mentioned this.

You could always eat the sweet potatoes.

Thanks. I like the dark walls too. Unfortunately I have no idea when the standard changed for horn sizes. Heck, I didn't even know there were different sizes.

mjt wrote: ↑Fri Feb 12, 2021 1:36 am Unfortunately I have no idea when the standard changed for horn sizes. Heck, I didn't even know there were different sizes.

I didn't even know it was called a "horn."

Manalto wrote: ↑Sun Feb 14, 2021 10:56 am I didn't even know it was called a "horn."

Me either until the plumber explained it to me.